Ed's
Head Paper Mache
Free
Paper Mache Lesson
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Many
people send me questions about how I make my paper
mache sculptures. Following is a basic description
of the steps and materials that I use, but feel free
to make whatever substitutions you feel are necessary.
Please excuse the rough sketches.
WARNING
Before
you use any paints, glues, or other art materials
you should carefully read the product labels. Many
products require that you use them in a well ventilated
area and some may require the use of gloves, eye protection,
or other safety equipment. Follow all label directions.
You want to have fun, not make yourself sick! This
information is presented "as is" and I make
nor warrantees or guarantees.
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The
Paste
There
are ready made pastes available for Paper Mache and
I have been told that wallpaper paste works well.
But I like to make my own paste. Here is my recipe:
- 1.5
cups water
- 1
cup white flour
- 1/2
tbs salt
- ¼
cup of carpenters glue (optional)
I
put the water into a glass bowl (I find glass is easier
to clean later) and add the flour slowly as I stir.
Then I mix in the salt and the carpenter's glue. I
find the carpenter's glue adds a lot of strength the
finished piece. Carpenters glue is the yellow glue,
it's not the white stuff.
Left
over glue can be stored in an air tight container
in a refrigerator for about a week. Be sure to take
it out of the refrigerator and let it warm up to room
temperature before you use it or you will get very
cold hands! You will have to mix it well too, as it
tends to separate.
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Materials
I
construct a form, and then I paper mache over it.
The form can be built out of almost anything. I
have used cardboard, Styrofoam, wood, plastic, wire,
balls of paper, whatever it takes to get the shape
I need. Some people make larger forms using chicken
wire. I have not tried this method.
An
easy project to try the first time would be a simple
bird or fish. The basic materials would be:
- Balloons
- Cardboard
(both heavy corrugated, and light weight like
cereal boxes)
- Toilet
paper tubes are handy
- Lot’s
of Masking tape is a must.
- Newspapers
- A
wide bowl for the paste
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Getting
Ready
First
you will want to tear the newspapers; it’s too hard
to do it as you go because your hands will be all
goopy and sticky. Find the grain of the paper, one
way it will tear into nice strips, the other way it
will not. Try to tear strips that are about 1 inch
wide by 4 to 6 inches long. Tear lots... more than
you need. Then tear some of the strips in half again
( so they would be about ½ inch by 3 inches. You will
need the smaller strips for smaller details.
Wear
a smock or old clothes! This is a messy process! If
you are the type that thinks you can do it neatly,
forget it! You will make a mess.
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Building
the Form
Inflate
a balloon. Don’t blow it up too much, you don’t want
it to be too “tight”, or it will pop too easily. Tie
it off really well, use two knots... you don’t want
it to start leaking air part way through the process.
Next,
you simply build fins and a tail (or wings and a tail
if you are making a bird) by cutting the shapes out
of cardboard, and attaching them firmly with lots
of masking tape.
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Flat
eyes can be painted on at the end, or for more of
a challenge, the eyes can be 3D by using a Styrofoam
ball cut in half, or 2 sections from an egg carton,
or anything else that suits you, but don't add too
many details on your first project. Try to keep it
fairly simple this time.
Make
sure that your balloon and cardboard form is as strong
as you can make it. You should be able to pick it
up by any part without fear that it will fall apart.
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This
is a more complicated form for the piece called "Bad
Kitty". The tail is just rolled up newspaper
and masking tape. The fat part of the body is a small
balloon and the skinny part and neck is thin cardboard.
The head is a small ball of paper with stiff plastic
cut into the ear shapes. The eyes are big green marbles.
The legs are wooden dowels. After this photo was taken
I added lots more masking tape.
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Into
the Goop!
I
dip my paper strip completely into the paste and then
I hold it over the bowl with one hand while I squeegee
off the excess with the index and middle finger of
the other hand. My wife says this is the messiest
way to do it, but I like doing it this way.
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| Then
I apply the paper strip to the form and I make sure
I have smoothed it down well. Apply the layers as
evenly as you can, with about a 25% over lap, and
try to keep your strips going in a consistent direction.
Then do the next layer rotated 90 degrees, this makes
it easier to see where you left off as you do each
additional layer.

You
can get away with 2 or 3 layers on the cardboard sections,
but try for 5 on the balloon areas.
You
don’t have to do all the layers in one sitting, but
you should try for at least two on the first go. Don’t
let the balloons sit too long before you finish adding
layers, because sooner or later they will shrink,
and if you are still adding layers the piece will
start to wrinkle and warp. But if you are a real go-getter,
becareful of doing too many layers at once, because
the piece will dry too slowly and could even rot.
Much depends on the climate where you live.
Allow
the piece to dry naturally. Don’t try to speed up
the process with a hair dryer, radiators, or direct
sunlight... this will only make the balloon expand
and tear the layers. Even if you are not using balloons
let them dry naturally. I have been told that if you
dry the outside too quickly you can seal in moisture
and the piece can rot from the inside.
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Here
we see "Bad Kitty" with all his layers of
paper mache. I used the yellow pages from a phone
book for the last layer. This made it really easy
to see which areas were done. You can also see the
paint pot the cat is knocking over. The can was made
of cardboard and the big drip of paint was formed
from paper and masking tape. Before he dried
completely I made some adjustments to the angle of
the back legs.
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Painting
After
the piece has completely dried (2 full days should
be enough time), it can be lightly sanded if there
are any rough spots you want to smooth down. Some
peple always sand and smooth thier work. I don;t
mind a bit of roughness to it.
It’s
a good idea to apply a white primer coat first.
I use Gesso, but ordinary water based latex interior
house paint works well too. You don;t need to put
it on very thinck and it should dry fairly quickly.
Once
the primer is dry, you can lightly sand it again
if you want it really smooth. I paint with artist
quality Acrylics, I have used student quality and
they work quite well too. I use a variety of techniques,
from brushes to sponges to rags, depending on the
look I want. When the painting is finished, I apply
a coat of clear latex medium, gloss or matte, to
protect the finished piece.

Bad
Kitty is finished after I added some wire for whiskers.
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Have
Fun!
That's
about it really. The rest is variation and experimentation.
I suggest you start small and work your way up to
the more complicated pieces, it will be less frustrating
and you will be more likely to stick with it.
I
like hearing about other people's projects, so drop
me a line and tell me what you are working on.
-Edgar
Beals
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